Insight Guides Pocket Bologna (Travel Guide eBook) by Insight Guides

Author:Insight Guides
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Travel, Italy
Publisher: Apa Publications
Published: 2019-07-17T16:00:00+00:00

A canon of Parma’s cathedral criticised Corregio’s fresco of the Assumption of the Virgin as ‘a stew of frogs’ legs’, but Titian, recognising the artist’s triumph of illusionism, decreed that if the dome were turned upside down and filled with gold it would not be as valuable as Correggio’s frescoes.

Al fresco dining in Parma

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Behind the cathedral the 16th-century Renaissance church of San Giovanni Evangelista (daily 8.30−11.45am and 3−6pm) with a Baroque facade also has a cupola decorated with a fine Correggio fresco: The Vision of St John on Patmos, depicting Christ descending to John. Northwest of Piazza del Duomo, in a former Benedictine convent, the Camera di San Paolo (Mon−Sat 1.10−6.50pm) was one of the private rooms in the apartments of the unconventional and learned Abbess of San Paolo, called Giovanna da Piacenza. In 1519 she commissioned Correggio to decorate the room with a feast for the senses, including mischievous putti and a view of Chastity as symbolised by the goddess Diana. It was Correggio’s first large-scale commission in Parma.

The Palazzo della Pilotta on Piazzale della Pace is the city’s cultural heart and home to the Galleria Nazionale (Tue−Sat 8.30am−7pm, Sun 1−7pm) with works by locals such as Correggio and Il Parmigianino, along with Venetian, Tuscan and other Emilian artists. The palazzo also houses the archaeological museum, housing pre-Roman and Roman artefacts, the Palatine Library and the Teatro Farnese, an imposing wooden theatre with a revolving stage, based on Palladio’s masterpiece, the Teatro Olimpico at Vicenza. It is still used for theatrical performances.

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